Une page de Proust au hasard:
0155 Ma mère ne parut pas très satisfaite que mon père ne songeât plus pour moi à la carrière
Cependant, mon père, pour aller au-devant des critiques que nous aurions pu faire sur notre invité, dit à maman:
— «J’avoue que le père Norpois a été un peu «poncif» comme vous dites. Quand il a dit qu’il aurait été «peu séant» de poser une question au comte de Paris, j’ai eu peur que vous ne vous mettiez à rire.»
« — Mais pas du tout, répondit ma mère, j’aime beaucoup qu’un homme de cette valeur et de cet âge ait gardé cette sorte de naïveté qui ne prouve qu’un fond d’honnêteté et de bonne éducation.»
— «Je crois bien! Cela ne l’empêche pas d’être fin et intelligent, je le sais moi qui le vois à la Commission tout autre qu’il n’est ici, s’écria mon père, heureux de voir que maman appréciait M. de Norpois, et voulant lui persuader qu’il était encore supérieur à ce qu’elle croyait, parce que la cordialité surfait avec autant de plaisir qu’en prend la taquinerie à déprécier. Comment a-t-il donc dit... «avec les princes on ne sait jamais... »
— «Mais oui, comme tu dis là. J’avais remarqué, c’est très fin. On voit qu’il a une profonde expérience de la vie.»
— «C’est extraordinaire qu’il ait dîné chez les Swann et qu’il y ait trouvé en somme des gens réguliers, des fonctionnaires... Où est-ce que Mme Swann a pu aller pêcher tout ce monde-là?»
— «As-tu remarqué, avec quelle malice il a fait cette réflexion: «C’est une maison où il va surtout des hommes!»
Et tous deux cherchaient à reproduire la manière dont M. de Norpois avait dit cette phrase, comme ils auraient fait pour quelque intonation de Bressant ou de Thiron dans l’Aventurière ou dans le Gendre de M. Poirier. Mais de tous ses mots, le plus goûté, le fut par Françoise qui, encore plusieurs années après, ne pouvait pas «tenir son sérieux» si on lui rappelait qu’elle avait été traitée par l’ambassadeur de «chef de premier ordre», ce que ma mère était allée lui transmettre comme un ministre de la guerre les félicitations d’un souverain de passage après «la Revue». Je l’avais d’ailleurs précédée à la cuisine. Car j’avais fait promettre à Françoise, pacifiste mais cruelle, qu’elle ne ferait pas trop souffrir le lapin qu’elle avait à tuer et je n’avais pas eu de nouvelles de cette mort; Françoise m’assura qu’elle s’était passée le mieux du monde et très rapidement: «J’ai jamais vu une bête comme ça; elle est morte sans dire seulement une parole, vous auriez dit qu’elle était muette.» Peu au courant du langage des bêtes, j’alléguai que le lapin ne criait peut-être pas comme le poulet. «Attendez un peu voir, me dit Françoise indignée de mon ignorance, si les lapins ne crient pas autant comme les poulets. Ils ont même la voix bien plus forte.» Françoise accepta les compliments de M. de Norpois avec la fière simplicité, le regard joyeux et — fût-ce momentanément — intelligent, d’un artiste à qui on parle de son art. Ma mère l’avait envoyée autrefois dans certains grands restaurants voir comment on y faisait la cuisine. J’eus ce soir-là à l’entendre traiter les plus célèbres de gargotes le même plaisir qu’autrefois à apprendre, pour les artistes dramatiques, que la hiérarchie de leurs mérites n’était pas la même que celle de leurs réputations. «L’Ambassadeur, lui dit ma mère, assure que nulle part on ne mange de buf froid et de soufflés comme les vôtres.» Françoise avec un air de modestie et de rendre hommage à la vérité, l’accorda, sans être, d’ailleurs, impressionnée par le titre d’ambassadeur; elle disait de M. de Norpois, avec l’amabilité due à quelqu’un qui l’avait prise pour un «chef»: «C’est un bon vieux comme moi.» Elle avait bien cherché à l’apercevoir quand il était arrivé, mais sachant que Maman détestait qu’on fût derrière les portes ou aux fenêtres et pensant qu’elle saurait par les autres domestiques ou par les concierges qu’elle avait fait le guet (car Françoise ne voyait partout que «jalousies» et «racontages» qui jouaient dans son imagination le même rôle permanent et funeste que, pour telles autres personnes, les intrigues des jésuites ou des juifs), elle s’était contentée de regarder par la croisée de la cuisine, «pour ne pas avoir des raisons avec Madame» et sur l’aspect sommaire de M. de Norpois, elle avait «cru Monsieur Legrand», à cause de son agileté, et bien qu’il n’y eût pas un trait commun entre eux. «Mais enfin, lui demanda ma mère, comment expliquez-vous que personne ne fasse la gelée aussi bien que vous (quand vous le voulez)?» «Je ne sais pas d’où ce que ça devient», répondit Françoise (qui n’établissait pas une démarcation bien nette entre le verbe venir, au moins pris dans certaines acceptions et le verbe devenir). Elle disait vrai du reste, en partie, et n’était pas beaucoup plus capable — ou désireuse — de dévoiler le mystère qui faisait la supériorité de ses gelées ou de ses crèmes, qu’une grande élégante pour ses toilettes, ou une grande cantatrice pour son chant. Leurs explications ne nous disent pas grand chose; il en était de même des recettes de notre cuisinière. «Ils font cuire trop à la va-vite, répondit-elle en parlant des grands restaurateurs, et puis pas tout ensemble. Il faut que le buf, il devienne comme une éponge, alors il boit tout le jus jusqu’au fond. Pourtant il y avait un de ces Cafés où il me semble qu’on savait bien un peu faire la cuisine. Je ne dis pas que c’était tout à fait ma gelée, mais c’était fait bien doucement et les soufflés ils avaient bien de la crème.» «Est-ce Henry? demanda mon père qui nous avait rejoints et appréciait beaucoup le restaurant de la place Gaillon où il avait à dates fixes des repas de corps. «Oh non! dit Françoise avec une douceur qui cachait un profond dédain, je parlais d’un petit restaurant. Chez cet Henry c’est très bon bien sûr, mais c’est pas un restaurant, c’est plutôt... un bouillon!» «Weber»? «Ah! non, monsieur, je voulais dire un bon restaurant. Weber c’est dans la rue Royale, ce n’est pas un restaurant, c’est une brasserie. Je ne sais pas si ce qu’ils vous donnent est servi. Je crois qu’ils n’ont même pas de nappe, ils posent cela comme cela sur la table, va comme je te pousse.» «Cirro?» Françoise sourit: «Oh! là je crois qu’en fait de cuisine il y a surtout des dames du monde. (Monde signifiait pour Françoise demi-monde.) Dame, il faut ça pour la jeunesse.» Nous nous apercevions qu’avec son air de simplicité Françoise était pour les cuisiniers célèbres une plus terrible «camarade» que ne peut l’être l’actrice la plus envieuse et la plus infatuée. Nous sentîmes pourtant qu’elle avait un sentiment juste de son art et le respect des traditions, car elle ajouta: «Non, je veux dire un restaurant où c’est qu’il y avait l’air d’avoir une bien bonne petite cuisine bourgeoise. C’est une maison encore assez conséquente. Ça travaillait beaucoup. Ah! on en ramassait des sous là-dedans (Françoise, économe, comptait par sous, non par louis comme les décavés). Madame connaît bien là-bas à droite sur les grands boulevards, un peu en arrière...» Le restaurant dont elle parlait avec cette équité mêlée d’orgueil et de bonhomie, c’était... le Café Anglais.


0155 My mother appeared none too well pleased
Marcel Proust
"Remembrance of Things Past" (In Search of Lost Time),
translated by C. K. Scott Moncrieff (1889-1930)
My mother appeared none too well pleased that my father no longer thought of ‘the career’ for myself. I fancy that, anxious before all things that a definite rule of life should discipline the eccentricity of my nervous system, what she regretted was not so much seeing me abandon diplomacy as the prospect of my devoting myself to literature. But “Let him alone!” my father protested; “the main thing is that a man should find pleasure in his work. He is no longer a child. He knows pretty well now what he likes, it is not at all probable that he will change, and he is quite capable of deciding for himself what will make him happy in life.” That evening, as I waited for the time to arrive when, thanks to the freedom of choice which they allowed me, I should or should not begin to be happy in life, my father’s words caused me great uneasiness. At all times his unexpected kindnesses had, when they were manifested, prompted in me so keen a desire to kiss, above where his beard began, his glowing cheeks, that if I did not yield to that desire, it was simply because I was afraid of annoying him. And on that day, as an author becomes alarmed when he sees the fruits of his own meditation, which do not appear to him to be of great value since he does not separate them from himself, oblige a publisher to choose a kind of paper, to employ a fount of type finer, perhaps, than they deserve, I asked myself whether my desire to write was of sufficient importance to justify my father in dispensing so much generosity. But apart from that, when he spoke of my inclinations as no longer liable to change, he awakened in me two terrible suspicions. The first was that (at a time when, every day, I regarded myself as standing upon the threshold of a life which was still intact and would not enter upon its course until the following morning) my existence was already begun, and that, furthermore, what was yet to follow would not differ to any extent from what had already elapsed. The second suspicion, which was nothing more, really, than a variant of the first, was that I was not situated somewhere outside the realm of Time, but was subject to its laws, just like the people in novels who, for that reason, used to plunge me in such depression when I read of their lives, down at Combray, in the fastness of my wicker sentry-box. In theory one is aware that the earth revolves, but in practice one does not perceive it, the ground upon which one treads seems not to move, and one can live undisturbed. So it is with Time in one’s life. And to make its flight perceptible novelists are obliged, by wildly accelerating the beat of the pendulum, to transport the reader in a couple of minutes over ten, or twenty, or even thirty years. At the top of one page we have left a lover full of hope; at the foot of the next we meet him again, a bowed old man of eighty, painfully dragging himself on his daily walk about the courtyard of an almshouse, scarcely replying to what is said to him, oblivious of the past. In saying of me, “He is no longer a child,” “His tastes will not change now,” and so forth, my father had suddenly made me apparent to myself in my position in Time, and caused me the same kind of depression as if I had baen, not yet the enfeebled old pensioner, but one of those heroes of whom the author, in a tone of indifference which is particularly galling, says to us at the end of a book: “He very seldom comes up now from the country. He has finally decided to end his days there.”
Meanwhile my father, so as to forestall any criticism that we might feel tempted to make of our guest, said to my mother: “Upon my word, old Norpois was rather ‘typical,’ as you call it, this evening, wasn’t he? When he said that it would not have been ‘seemly’ to ask the Comte de Paris a question, I was quite afraid you would burst out laughing.”
“Not at all!” answered my mother. “I was delighted to see a man of his standing, and age too, keep that sort of simplicity, which is really a sign of straightforwardness and good-breeding.”
“I should think so, indeed! That does not prevent his having a shrewd and discerning mind; I know him well, I see him at the Commission, remember, where he is very different from what he was here,” exclaimed my father, who was glad to see that Mamma appreciated M. de Norpois, and anxious to persucde her that he was even superior to what she supposed, because a cordial nature exaggerates a friend’s qualities with as much pleasure as a mischievous one finds in depreciating them. “What was it that he said, again—‘With Princes one never does know.’...?”
“Yes, that was it. I noticed it at the time; it was very neat. You can see that he has a vast experience of life.”
“The astonishing thing is that he should have been dining with the Swanns, and that he seems to have found quite respectable people there, officials even. How on earth can Mme. Swann have managed to catch them?”
“Did you notice the malicious way he said: ‘It is a house which is especially attractive to gentlemen!’?”
And each of them attempted to reproduce the manner in which M. de Norpois had uttered these words, as they might have attempted to capture some intonation of Bressant’s voice or of Thiron’s in L’Aventurière or in the Gendre de M. Poirier. But of all his sayings there was none so keenly relished as one was by Françoise, who, years afterwards, even, could not ‘keep a straight face’ if we reminded her that she had been qualified by the Ambassador as ‘a chef of the first order,’ a compliment which my mother had gone in person to transmit to her, as a War Minister publishes the congratulations addressed to him by a visiting Sovereign after the grand review. I, as it happened, had preceded my mother to the kitchen. For I had extorted from Françoise, who though opposed to war was cruel, that she would cause no undue suffering to the rabbit which she had to kill, and I had had no report yet of its death. Françoise assured me that it had passed away as peacefully as could be desired, and very swiftly. “I have never seen a beast like it; it died without uttering a word; you would have thought it was dumb.” Being but little versed in the language of beasts I suggested that the rabbit had not, perhaps, a cry like the chicken’s. “Just wait till you see,” said Françoise, filled with contempt for my ignorance, “if rabbits don’t cry every bit as much as chickens. Why, they are far noisier.” She received the compliments of M. de Norpois with the proud simplicity, the joyful and (if but for the moment) intelligent expression of an artist when someone speaks to him of his art. My mother had sent her when she first came to us to several of the big restaurants to see how the cooking there was done. I had the same pleasure, that evening, in hearing her dismiss the most famous of them as mere cookshops that I had had long ago, when I learned with regard to theatrical artists that the hierarchy of their merits did not at all correspond to that of their reputations. “The Ambassador,” my mother told her, “assured me that he knows no place where he can get cold beef and soufflés as good as yours.” Françoise, with an air of modesty and of paying just homage to the truth, agreed, but seemed not at all impressed by the title ‘Ambassador’; she said of M. de Norpois, with the friendliness due to a man who had taken her for a chef: “He’s a good old soul, like me.” She had indeed hoped to catch sight of him as he arrived, but knowing that Mamma hated their standing about behind doors and in windows, and thinking that Mamma would get to know from the other servants or from the porter that she had been keeping watch (for Françoise saw everywhere nothing but ‘jealousies’ and ‘tale-bearings,’ which played the same grim and unending part in her imagination as do for others of us the intrigues of the Jesuits or the Jews), she had contented herself with a peep from the kitchen window, ‘so as not to have words with Madame,’ and beneath the momentary aspect of M. de Norpois had ‘thought it was Monsieur Legrand,’ because of what she called his ‘agelity’ and in spite of their having not a single point in common. “Well,” inquired my mother, “and how do you explain that nobody else can make a jelly as well as you—when you choose?” “I really couldn’t say how that becomes about,” replied Françoise, who had established no very clear line of demarcation between the verb ‘to come,’ in certain of its meanings at least, and the verb ‘to become.’ She was speaking the truth, if not the whole truth, being scarcely more capable—or desirous—of revealing the mystery which ensured the superiority of her jellies or her creams than a leader of fashion the secrets of her toilet or a great singer those of her song. Their explanations tell us little; it was the same with the recipes furnished by our cook. “They do it in too much of a hurry,” she went on, alluding to the great restaurants, “and then it’s not all done together. You want the beef to become like a sponge, then it will drink up all the juice to the last drop. Still, there was one of those Cafés where I thought they did know a little bit about cooking. I don’t say it was altogether my jelly, but it was very nicely done, and the soufflés had plenty of cream.” “Do you mean Henry’s?” asked my father (who had now joined us), for he greatly enjoyed that restaurant in the Place Gaillon where he went regularly to club dinners. “Oh, dear no!” said Françoise, with a mildness which cloaked her profound contempt. “I meant a little restaurant. At that Henry’s it’s all very good, sure enough, but it’s not a restaurant, it’s more like a—soup-kitchen.” “Weber’s, then?” “Oh, no, sir, I meant a good restaurant. Weber’s, that’s in the Rue Royale; that’s not a restaurant, it’s a drinking-shop. I don’t know that the food they give you there is even served. I think they don’t have any tablecloths; they just shove it down in front of you like that, with a take it or leave it.” “Giro’s?” “Oh! there I should say they have the cooking done by ladies of the world.” (‘World’ meant for Françoise the under-world.) “Lord! They need that to fetch the boys in.” We could see that, with all her air of simplicity, Françoise was for the celebrities of her profession a more disastrous ‘comrade’ than the most jealous, the most infatuated of actresses. We felt, all the same, that she had a proper feeling for her art and a respect for tradition; for she went on: “No, I mean a restaurant where they looked as if they kept a very good little family table. It’s a place of some consequence, too. Plenty of custom there. Oh, they raked in the coppers there, all right.” Françoise, being an economist, reckoned in coppers, where your plunger would reckon in gold. “Madame knows the place well enough, down there to the right along the main boulevards, a little way back.” The restaurant of which she spoke with this blend of pride and good-humoured tolerance was, it turned out, the Café Anglais.